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Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Gastronomy List.

Biryani cooking using the classic Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover tightly sealed with dough.

Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".

The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.

"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
Tender kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is celebrated for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.

These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city presents special seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a special airy dessert, when it gets cold.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.

In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.

To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall offering masala chai
A renowned tea stall is celebrated for its creamy masala chai.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.

On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children do not want to learn the skill.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.

Written by

Claudia White

A geologist specializing in climate change impacts and sustainable resource management, with over 15 years of field research experience.

TerraLab

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